These Stainless Steel glove box tabs were stamped from dies made from steel and epoxy resin. The cost of these dies is reasonable compared to the cost of having steel dies cut from solid steel that would otherwise break a deal for such a short production run.
Photos below show that the more complex positive and negative shapes we CAST from the original sample part in high compression resistant iron filled epoxy resin. The material held up well enough to stamp several hundred more stainless steel shapes.
This valve functions the same as a radiator cap on Rolls Royce vehicles built in the late 50's and 60's.. Leave it to Rolls Royce to invent their own solution to to maintaining coolant pressure and venting excessive steam over a conventional radiator cap. These early units fit inside a remote reservoir tank, and are discontinued from Rolls Royce. This opened an opportunity to be remake these steam valves as a needed aftermarket replacement item.
We made all the metal stamping dies to recreate these valves, and went a few steps better. The inner valve is now a more positive proven design, and the valve body is made of pure copper.
The coil in the foreground is functional copy of the original 1937 Alfa Romero BOSCH coil (on the right). I have adapted the new coil to run using a magnetic electronic ignition hidden under the original breaker plate in the distributor.
We made the various components from available shapes and compatible materials as can be seen in the photos below- from concept to illustrations, to final part.. I tested the final unit on my 51 ford pickup truck that is running the same Pertronix ignition system before shipping the coil off to my customer.
This is a case of "SHRINKING PLASTIC" that I deal with on so many components where the original design relies on the integrity of plastic that deteriorates over time.
Specifically, here you see the GREEN VINYL COUPLING that I made to replace the original white plastic broken fingers and circular tension band that are below in pieces on the table.
Basically, the movement of the seat- forward and back- is transferred to this rheostat through gears driven by a "slip coupling" that allows the rheostat to "self calibrate" as the "slip" of the gear driven pinion maxes out the variable resistor when seat travel reaches its limit.
The problem is that the fingers of the original white plastic ball "Palm" loose their grip as they break off at their "Knuckles". A simple piece of easily obtainable green vinyl fuel line holds fast to the square nubs of the original "broken wrist" YET, has the correct slipping tension when pushed over the coupler's driven ball. SEE the video operating my
MMR (Motor Sports Marketing Resource) caught up with Mike and I at Automobilia in Monterey, CA and gave us each an interview.
These NLS flapper doors were originally made of plastic. After several thousand open and closing cycles in the extreme hot and cold temperature blowing air, the plastic deterioration actually crumpled the original doors into pieces that sucked into the fan blower motor jamming it.
These new doors fashioned from aluminium ride on bronze sleeve bearings. The new stainless steel axis pins will not corrode.
For added sound control, I sprayed the doors with a sound deadening thick polymer plastic coating. This added weight as well, because the doors close by gravity, and air pressure. A Velour-backed vinyl made a noiseless gasket that the doors slam and seal against.
Here is one of hundreds of Vacuum operated advance unit diaphragm replacements that I have done. After years of use, the rubber in these units shrinks, becomes rigid, pulls-out of its crimped metal seam, or otherwise deteriorates.
Using a nylon mesh reinforced nitrile diaphragm material, I replace old rotten components using a variety of suitable techniques. By wrapping the diaphragm material around the crimped components perimeter, I do OEM one step better. My diaphragm will never pull out of a crimped seam, as often is the case on OEM units.
This old hand held vacuum pump has seen a lot of use. It is still accurate! Here is the repaired vacuum canister holding about 20 "Hg. without leaks.
When I say "Hundreds of units repaired", this is actually an understatement. I have repaired so many over the years that I have lost count. Here are a few unusual ones finished.
Something weird about this work--
The hydrocarbon aroma, ( or smells - depending upon your point of view) that accompany the opening of these old units is somewhat akin to their DNA signatures. Catching a whiff of some of these would spin the memories of some old timers back 90 years or more.!
After electroplating the bead blasted canister halves in Zinc, using a rolling press, the re-crimped canister holds vacuum once again with modern Nitrile diaphragm installed.
CAST IRON MANIFOLD REPAIR
Nickle arc welding cast iron was a standard practice- yet often fails, as did this repair. Typically, the weld puddle comes out OK, but the cast iron next to the bead got so hot, it crystallizes the iron, and when it cools again after several heat cycles- it cracks.
Forge brazing is a process using a lower temperature alloy rod to repair cast iron cracks that involves heating the entire manifold to eliminate local stresses in the cast iron.
You can see the cracks formed at the edge of the nickle weld where it meets the original cast iron.
Using a special cast iron alloy from MuggyWeld.com and controlled heat on an asbestos table- baffling the assembly on all sides, I made a tent to keep the entire unit very hot- then concentrated on overfilling the area with alloy.
Here you see the finished product where I cut to shape the overfill with a round-nose burr on a die grinder WHILE IT was still hot and cooling. An "Old Timer" told me that vibration of the unit during cooling helps re-set the crystal structure of the cast iron. I do not know if that is magic, yet I have more than 50 repairs like this in the field without failure.
Paddle shifter Ferrari's need a push button for reverse. Unfortunately they made the plastic too thin. When James Bond wants reverse he tends to push too hard! Thus the reinforcement plate pictured below.
This is a rubber channel material --I had to widen with a form and heat gun-- to fit the lower edge of the lamp base. I used "O" ring flexible super glue and straight edge razor to fit the corners. The glue works so well on rubber- it might as well be one piece!
Specializing in Antique, Rare and Classic Auto Parts Restoration since 1991.